Sometimes journeys take longer than expected. Having completed the walk to the top of Adams Peak, we jump on a bus. It's crowded and it's a 2 hour journey to Hatton. Reece has to stand most of the way. From Hatton we catch a train. There's no seats. It's Sunday and it appears everyone is on their way home, on our train! So it's four hours standing on the train and we've been walking since two in the morning. The walk lasted for about 7 hours, its the downward part that plays havoc on your knees. Luckily there's entertainment on the train. The large group of teenage boys drum and sing the whole way. It keeps my feet moving and my fingers tapping.
We arrive in Kandy only to head out the next morning to Sigiriya, this time with a driver and very sore thighs!
To be greeted by a sloping rock face and lots of stairs can be a tad daunting with aching muscles, but to see the Dambulla caves it's a necessary suffering!
Historically, these caves have been a place of worship since the 1st century BC. There are five caves magnificently carved with 150 Buddha images. To add to the sheer beauty the caves are painted, the ceilings are stunning. Most of the painting happened in the 19th century
From Dambulla we head to Sigiriya (lion rock)
When a huge lump of a rock sits in the middle of a plain...what else to do but carve it and stick a temple on top. That's exactly what happened here ........
It's an impressive formation, geologically it rises 200m above the dusty plains, it's flat topped and an amazing archaeological site as well. It can be spotted from kilometres away.
Local legend says when the king Kasapa (AD 477-495)was exiled after murdering his father ....he escaped to Sigiria. He built his own kingdom and lived on top of the mountain for ..... Years. More recent evidence says that Sigiria was never a fortress or a place but a Budhist Monastery built several centuries before King Kasapa.
We stay in a resort and relax ready for the walk up in the early morning before the crowds arrive.
The lower areas you approach is made up of water gardens. The water off the rock is all directed to these gardens, beautifully carved pools and even fountains. The whole gardens are an engineering feat of great significance.
After you pass through the Water gardens you enter the boulder gardens. Massive boulders are seemingly propped up by rock walls which weave their magnificence in various directions. Every boulder is carved in some way to direct the water below.
Gradually climbing upward the 'rock' looms overhead. The now 'modern' spiral staircase replaces the once upon a time, bamboo ladders! The height is rather sickening and not for the faint hearted. Vertigo sufferers forget it!
Within this cave are a series of frescoes. Beautiful buxom women line the walls. ( Either King Kasapas concubines or images to represent Tara Devi, an important MahayanaBudhist goddess, depending on the theory)
Around the western side of the rock is a staircase, the remains of enormous lions paws come out from the rock, the staircase begins.
At the top of the rock, an area of 1.6ha, there are remaining foundations of buildings. The view is stunning and it's easy to visualise this being a place of meditation, rather than a fortress. We are up on top with only two other tourists, it's calm and peaceful.
It's a different story on the way down, there are hundreds!
The heights are dizzying and of course you have to climb down as well. The narrow staircase is somehow pinned to the rock and it's best not to think about it, just one step in front of the other.
The heights are worth it, the whole place fills me with awe and fascination, such unbelievable engineering. How did people of ancient times achieve such wonders?
Later that day...
Elephants are still common in this area and a safari in a jeep allows us to see many. They appear so gentle and safe. When we stop we are quickly reminded of their strength and the fact they are wild animals, another jeep pulls up, it's passengers rather terrified and high on adrenalin as they had had a mad escape from a rogue mother who charged, and in fact made contact with their jeep, leaving a massive dent in the side!
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