Ella.

Inspector 'Bloop' arrived in the village; calm descended. His uniform is immaculately presented, hair slicked and perfectly groomed. He stood with his arms tightly wrapped behind his back, firmly clasping his glasses case. His fingers tapped the case impatiently as he awaited the arrival of the bus. The busses hold a thousand stories. Everyone on board has one. Some stories come out, some remain hidden, but one thing is for sure, they all want to know ours.

On this corner, eating breakfast at "the curd shop", everything is visible. The village unfolds. Several tuk tuks lurk awaiting prospective customers. All manner of things get loaded in; people being the obvious. Far more interesting is the fact that they can be so loaded with goods (of any description, from rice to rocks) you wonder how they will move, and then a couple of people will miraculously fold themselves up and squeeze in the last remaining gap.

Everyone is on the move, busses come and go. Sometimes they don't really stop, just slow down enough for the passenger to leap on or off, taking their lives in their hands once again.

The fruit seller does his best to entice us to buy. He calls, " coconut papaya banana water...you buy!" He knows we will buy something, he grins with acknowledgement. If you arrive for breakfast early enough you see him shuffle up the street. Later in the evening he seems to struggle to stand, too many beetle nuts. The red on his lips and the spittle around his stall, a telltale sign.

The Super Relex restaurant is opposite. Here they sell all manner of items, but it's the sweet sticky buns we buy. Covered in sugar, they appeal to our bellies late in the afternoon.

There's even a small nursery. Roses, dahlias and chrysanthemum seem to be plentiful. All sold in small pots for people's gardens.

The queue for the arayuvedic clinic starts in the morning, it doesn't open till about 4 in the afternoon. The customers sit and wait all day, probably sharing stories.

There's the local dog, or at least one of them, but this one loves the tourists. I'd like to say it's just taken to me, but over the days I've seen it go with several others. I can't hold it against him. He has one of those faces that holds a thousand stories, it's his body too that tells a story. It's disfigured shape. A leg that juts out behind it, severely broken, somehow,sometime. His frame is slight and he is so skinny. He joins us for breakfast. He coils comfortably at my feet.

This corner is so busy it's surprising only one dog looks like this, perhaps the others never made it after their battle with a car, tuk tuk, truck or bus.

We choose a guest house close to the centre of town. The view from our room is everchanging. As the afternoon storms roll in Ella Rock gradually disappears, swallowed by the mist. It's a great place to sit in the afternoon and enjoy cups of tea. Appropriately named Rock View, the guest house does a great curry and I join the cook in the evening to watch as he prepares the meal. The result: a delicious feast!

 

Walks around Ella

I'm sitting very close to the top of Ella Rock. There's a tree that's been logged just for me. I'm sitting on the stump. It's been quite a climb to here and I'm 'stumped' literally. I've decided to sit the rest out and just enjoy being here, alone, contemplating the view. Reece climbs on. The mountain has been planted out in eucalypts, it's quite bizarre really, feels like the Australian Bush. There's very little to disturb me, a few birds call to each other. The gentle breeze flows through the trees. Somewhere way off in the distance, I'm sure I can hear some music beats floating on the breeze. I am higher than all the surrounding mountains. And so I just sit. Peace.

At the beginning of this walk we had to walk along the railway tracks for about 3 kilometres. On this part of the walk we came across a small preschool. Knowing the train was due to come, we settled at the preschool for awhile. I played with the children; hopscotch on the concrete. When we ventured inside I got out the iPad. The children clambered and climbed all over me for a better view and to touch the screen as much as possible. It was a matter of trying to hold back their hands as I tried desperately to encourage them to take turns...epic fail! Their tiny fingers, seemingly millions of them, would find their way to the screen, and, consequently close the application that I was trying to use. Actually, after quite some time (and lots of patience and hand holding on my part), they realised I would let each of them have a go, but still, ever so beautifully, little hands and fingers just couldn't keep off.

Coming down we found a more direct route. (We had traversed several tracks on the way up) the afternoon mist rolled in and down came the rain. No problems, once we were drenched it stopped!

Another walk takes us to 'Little Adams Peak'.

Climbing up little Adams peak is a small test for my fitness it's only about 350 stairs. The view is stunning and allows us to look back at the luxurious accommodation known as 98acres. We treated ourselves to one night there. The panoramic scenery from our verandah is nothing short of stunning and as the afternoon descends the cloud lifts through the valley and engulfs the mountains. The scenery changes by the second. Ella Gap stretches out in front of you, reaching out forever to the plain nearly 1000m below. At 98 Acres we are surrounded by a tea plantation. The food is good, the service, almost too keen, and the surroundings, as I've said, stunning.

Another walk takes us six kilometres down the road to Rawana Ella Falls. It's all downhill, somewhat taxing on the legs, but more so on the nervous system. This is the same winding road we traversed to get to Ella. As the bus crept its way up the hills it sounded its horn as it approached the corners. The road was narrow, with vertical drop offs and, when two large vehicles arrived at the corners at the same time it was a tight squeeze, in fact it was possible to reach out and touch the other bus! So as we walk down, there are moments when the drop off is all to close as the thought of approaching busses fills my head. Consequently I walk rather fast. Still I enjoy the view, albeit with sweaty palms!

A small chameleon catches our eye.

Eager monkeys await some food.

The waterfall itself is a welcome cool down.

Beautiful Ella, incredible scenery, great walks, delicious food....next stop ..the train to Ohiya.

 

 

 

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Colombo to Ahangama.

Arriving late at night in Colombo we organise a 'taxi' from the airport to our pre-booked accommodation. As we begin to leave the arrivals area there is a small man holding up a card with our names on it. The guest house has arranged a pick up for us. Back to the 'taxi' counter ... Cancel our ride,and into the car of our guest house. It's always a gamble working out communications, a challenge that keeps us guessing at times.

The roads are fairly quiet as we make our way to the guesthouse.

It's new year in Sri Lanka; A time when people close their businesses and spend time with their families. From the airport it's about forty five minutes. Thusare house has been set up to support people who are visually impaired. Originally as a massage place, now they have added rooms to support their income. It's a basic guest house, with a shared bathroom but quite adequate.

The next morning we venture out onto a bus to the train station and the centre of the town. To say the busses are crazy in Sri Lanka is an understatement! They are fast and furious. It would appear that they are the kings of the road...although trucks are possibly the absolute rulers. The drivers seem to think that accelerating into corners is OK. When travelling behind them, the lean is almost defying gravity, perhaps they snap a lot of axles here? Never the less, we catch busses.

Arriving at the station, we find the area fairly deserted (in Asian station terms!). We walk to Colombo Fort onto Galle Face Green, checking out the architecture and the day trippers who enjoy the outdoor space. The President's house is heavily guarded and we must cross the street to pass by..."no photos!"

The heat is intense the clouds are gathering. It is clear that we are going to be rained on.

Of course, this is a great reason to stop for a cup of tea! The wind comes first. It hits with great ferocity, followed by torrential rain that lasts about one hour. A perfect amount of time to eat cake and drink tea.

Most businesses are shut up and finding local food is a challenge. Our introduction to Colombo is not a realistic one. The relative quiet of the place gives a sleepy and relaxed impression... I think in reality Colombo is a different place.

The next day we set of to the train station to make our way to Ahangama. The journey is about three hours down the south coast. The train arrives, people surge forward and cram and push their way into every oriface of the red carriages. There was no way we could squeeze in with our packs and a somewhat dodgy leg. We raced from doorway to doorway, moving along the platform, jostled by others doing the same. Eventually a space opened up ...we clambered aboard. Standing room only, the doorway at least providing air. Ahh... The luxury of second class over New Year.

We travel down the coast hugging the coast. This is the coast that was wiped out in the 2004 tsunami. The train that was swept away was on this very line, traveling this very trip. It is estimated that about 1700 people died on that train on that day... As I stand hot and crowded, I ponder the disaster...

Ahangama is a town right on the beach. Our accommodation "surfing villa" is just across the road from a surf spot known as 'the rock'. We stay here for several days. We meet local people they tell us stories of the tsunami, we are invited for dinner.

Delicious curries jackfruit curry and one made with the jackfruit seeds (which was particularly good), fish curry, Dahl, a gotu kola salad, bringel, and rice.

Surfing on this coast is not at its peak at this time, but there are still waves to be had. We check out various spots with a tuk tuk. It would appear that there are certainly plenty of place s to surf.

Galle is a town about half an hour north. There is a massive fort here built by the Dutch in 1663. Inside this area is a plethora of architectural styles and a myriad of little streets. From the walls it is a fabulous view both into the town and out to the ocean. These very walls protected the district within from the tsunami, and for hundreds of years before, from invasion of the human kind.

 

We also travel to Unawatuna, a popular beach resort and enjoy some fine tourist time...

A pleasant afternoon...

 

 

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Ahangama to Aragum Bay

So we are cramed in the bus, at least we have a seat. Bad mistake though, the front seat; we thought we had more leg room, however, this is where everyone gathers( obviously!) so we are pushed, leant on and used as baggage racks. The music is cranked up so loud it's hard to talk ....but, hey, it's all part of the experience. Wish they'd turn the music down though. We are starting to traverse the dry side of the island, making our way to Aragum Bay. A short stop has provided us with sustenance, two egg roti and a bread roll stuffed with spicey veggies. Two bottles of drink...450 rupees. About $3.00.

Can they really squeeze more people in... Boxes bags people. It is a struggle for commuters to get in and out, Reece cops all the digs( physically), he's on the outside seat.

It was a long journey. We left Ahangama at 9.30 am. We caught a local bus to Mataram, then from Mataram we found a bus to Potovil. Usually you have to change busses at Monaragalla onto Potovil but we were lucky, today there was a direct bus. From Potovil it's a short tuk tuk ride to Aragum Bay. We arrived at about 7.30 pm...it was a long day.

The locals are fisher people. The beach is lined with boats. Many of these boats were donated after the tsunami by Rotary Clubs from around the world . Typically, the lack of coordination between agencies, means that, apparently, there is a proliferation of these boats. Many people talk of the inequity of the fund distribution and I am sadly reminded of the same stories from Indonesia in our last travels. Angelaandreece@bogger.com. Travels through Asia

There are still traditional looking boats around. It's fascinating to watch the local men repair the seam between the fibreglass and timber top using the fronds of coconuts and stitching. The work is functional and attractive at the same time.

 

 

The proliferation of crows astound me. They are everywhere. Where are the seagulls? Crows don't belong on the beach! Yet here they do...a land where anything is possible. Srilanka used to be called Serendib. The word serendipity originated here...anything is possible and expect amazing things around the next corner things just fall in place.

 

In Aragum Bay we find plenty of friendly people. It's a chilled kind of place, the locals are incredibly friendly and the tourists are surfers ( but we won't hold that against them; this crew are great). I am sitting writing this out at the point. The sound of the waves surround me with the quiet chatter of a few in the background. As soon as the sun comes up, it's hot. To stand in the sun is almost impossible. This little shack serves a great fruit salad and tea; so it's where I come every morning. The louder sound of waves signal the sets and this morning they are rolling in.

 

 

It's also an area where the national parks are close by. We take an afternoon trip into a local park and spot elephants, monkeys peacocks, exquisite kingfishers and more.

 

 

 

Monkeys gather in the afternoon, we see them often, either gathering for a play or eating blossoms in the trees. The joy of monkeys, I challenge anyone to watch them and not smile!

 

 

 

There's more to do than surf. I love the way all the local day trippers come here . They sit and wallow in the still part of the bay, lots of laughter and chatter.

 

The beach is always busy, fishermen sort their catch, small taxi boats head out to get fish off the larger boats to bring them ashore. The man with the buffalo cart picks up fish and brings them back to the co-op.

Our time in Aragum bay is like a time spent somewhere where you feel like you are at home. We stay at a place called Aragum Bay Surf Resort. In the past it was and still is, known as The Hillton....but they can no longer use that name, a large Hotel chain has made sure of that. The family here are incredibly friendly and can organise all sort of safaris/transport etc.

 

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In the beginning.

The beginning of our journey started in Singapore. A city that never fails to amaze me. After a flight from the Gold Coast to KL then onto Singapore we are tired, arriving at Singapore airport is instantly organised and structured. I have to admit I really didn't do much in the two days whilst there. Happy to sit back and relax. We did venture out on Saturday morning to join Melissa and Peter in a charity paddle. Dragon boats for "caring for Cambodia".

 

 

A tad competitive

But all good fun in the end...

Because we were winners!

 

 

 

 

The compulsory chicken rice was eaten the next day. We found this place just off Orchard road. We ate (all four of us) for $30. Singapore dollars.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Followed later by cake in a cage and gamaichi tea.

Farewell to Singapore and wonderful friends and onto Sri Lanka. We flew to Colombo with Tiger Air. No complaints with tickets only costing around $200.aud. for us both.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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